Leg 1: Delhi to Manali
* Delhi (Rajghat) – Delhi / Haryana Border: 33 kms / 0:26 hrs
Distance marked from here in kms: Ambala 170, Karnal 92
* Delhi / Haryana Border – Barista Coffee (located on left side of highway itself): 23 kms / 0:17 hrs
If you prefer, there is a Café Coffee Day just 2 kms down and a very nice multi cuisine restaurant Haveli soon after; I think the latter is open 24 hours.
* Barista Coffee – Samalkha: 23 kms / 0:12 hrs
* Samalkha – Panipat: 17 kms / 0:10 hrs
Stick to the central lanes as you approach Panipat so you can take the flyover over the city – if you go through the city below the flyover, it could take you 30 minutes or longer.
* Panipat – Barista Coffee (located on opposite side of highway): 31 kms / 0:26 hrs
Barista is open 24 hrs here.
* Barista Coffee – Savoy Greens Food Court (next to Karni Lake in Karnal, on the opposite side of the highway): 13 kms / 0:13 hrs
The Savoy Greens is one of the better places to eat on the highway. The food court offers a selection of McDonalds, Costa Coffee, Subway, Domino’s Pizza, Kwality (North Indian dishes), a South Indian counter besides others.
* Savoy Greens – Karnal Toll Plaza (Rs. 81 for cars in 2010): 16 kms / 0:14 hrs
* Karnal Toll Plaza – Kurukshetra / Pipli: 13 kms / 0:11 hrs
Pipli is on the highway itself while Kurukshetra is a little inside from the highway.
* Kurukshetra – Ambala: 43 kms / 0:36 hrs
Just after the town there is a Saagar Ratna restaurant (serving south and north Indian cuisines, and usually do a good job – except the last time I was there) – a good option for a meal. It is located on the opposite side of the highway.
It is also a good idea to tank up at or before Ambala. Fuel is much more expensive in Punjab and Himachal Pradesh.
* Ambala – Right Turn for Kharar / Roopnagar just before Toll Plaza: 14 kms / 0:15 hrs
When you exit Ambala, don’t take the road to Chandigarh but the one to Jalandhar along NH1. Shortly after you will come to a toll plaza – don’t cross it. There is a right turn just before that, take that.
* Turn for Kharar – Kharar: 42 kms / 0:41 hrs
You hit NH21 after this that goes all the way to Manali
* Kharar – Kurali Toll Plaza (Rs. 11 for car in 2010): 13 kms / 0:17 hrs
* Kurali Toll Plaza – Roopnagar (formerly Ropar): 16 kms / 0:18 hrs
* Roopnagar – Right Turn for Manali: 31 kms / 0:42 hrs
Be careful here – it is easy to miss this turn. There is a flyover under construction next to a railway crossing and a fuel station. You have to turn right here over the tracks. Traffic sometimes tends to get jammed here. Of course, in due course of time, this flyover will be complete – but no one knows when. It has been work in progress for years.
* Right Turn for Manali – Swarghat: 22 kms / 0:35 hrs
* Swarghat – Bilaspur: 42 kms / 1:25 hrs
The road become mountainous from here. It was generally a good road but has deteriorated lately especially after the unexceptionally heavy rains of 2010.
* Bilaspur – Sundernagar: 44 kms / 1:09 hrs
* Sundernagar – Mandi: 24 kms / 0:29 hrs
* Mandi – Aut Tunnel (2809 m long): 39 kms / 0:51 hrs
* Aut Tunnel – Kullu: 31 kms / 0:39 hrs
* Kullu – Naggar: 26 kms / 0:55 hrs
After you cross Kullu town, you will see a bridge going across the river. Slow down, take a U-turn to the left and go onto the bridge to cross over. This will take you on the right bank – The drive is along a narrower road that takes you through villages and Naggar – all along, you will see fruit orchards, a delightful sight at all time especially when they bear fruits or flowers. You may choose not to cross the river and continue straight – that gets you to the centre of Manali town quicker.
A good idea to tank up in Kullu or Manali – the next fuel station will be in Tandi. And supplies there can be erratic – and you will have to wait to get to Leh to find the next station.
* Naggar – Manali: 22 kms / 0:37 hrs
Total Distance / Time: 578 kms / 11:38 hours
General Notes for the Delhi – Manali Drive:
* There is no dearth of fuel stations and places to eat along the way.
* It is always advisable to leave early from Delhi, preferably by 6 a.m. since it is a long journey and it is not advisable to drive in the dark on highways.
Leg 2: Manali – Jispa
This marks the beginning of one of the most beautiful drives you will ever undertake – and also one of the most challenging. There is virtually no road over long stretches and weather conditions can change fast – many groups were stuck for days when heavy unseasonal rains and flash floods occurred in the summer of 2010. But worry not – be careful and no one gets hurt.
* Manali – Marhi: 36 kms / 1:30 hrs
This is the better part of the road – and you will generally have a smooth run. Of course, there will be rough patches – and all it takes is one stuck vehicle to throw all traffic out of gear. At Marhi, you can take a break for tea / snacks / meal at one of the many roadside Dhabas (restaurants). Most restrooms belong to the Dhabas and they only allow paying customers to use it. Buy a tea or cola if need be to use it – there are not too many opportunities to go behind rocks for a long time after this.
* Marhi – Rohtang Pass: 16 kms / 1:30 hrs
This is a bad stretch, getting worse with every monsoon rains and winter snow. You will make only slow progress when you go off season with limited traffic, and it will be a snarl during holiday season. Marked Altitide for Rohtang Pass: 3,980 m (13,057 ft)
* Rohtang Pass – Gramphoo (Turn Right for Kaza /Spiti, and straight for Ladakh): 16 kms / 1:19 hrs
Distance marked from here in kms: Kaza 137, Tabo 177, Keylong 51
* Gramphoo – Koksar: 6 kms / 0:10 hrs
You need to enter your personal information at the Police Post here. Non-Indians may need to show passports / travel permits if required.
* Koksar – Sissu: 14 kms / 0:15 hrs
* Sissu – Tandi (Last fuel station here till Leh): 24 kms / 0:50 hrs
A good idea to tank up here even if you think you have enough fuel. You never know when you may have to take unplanned diversions. But don’t depend on this place to get fuel – it may be closed or out of stock sometimes. Best to be sure you have enough from Manali onwards.
* Tandi – Keylong: 9 kms / 0:20 hrs
You can enter the town here to grab a bite – but it will be basic at best. Keylong is also known for some monasteries and other religious establishments should you be interested.
* Keylong – Jispa: 23 kms / 0:50 hrs
Stop here for a night halt. If you have made good progress, you can continue to Sarchu – not recommended as you like to go slow and steady after Jispa to admire the many attractions on the way.
Total Distance / Time: 144 kms / 6:45 hrs
Leg 3: Jispa – Leh
Be prepared for a rough ride from here. The quality of roads (where they exist) changes every year depending on damaging the winters were and the extent of repairs that follow. You will get long stretches of broken roads, or just dust tracks.
* Jispa – Deepak Tal (Lake): 23 kms / 0:50 hrs
This is a small but beautiful lake. Have a snack, meal or tea at Hozer’s shack if you like.
* Deepak Tal – Suraj Tal: 30 kms / 1:00 hrs
A bigger lake, makes for great pictures if it is partially or fully frozen. This is usually so during early summers when snow has not fully melted.
* Suraj Tal – Baralach La (Pass): 3 kms / 0:05 hrs
This is one of the higher passes in Ladakh, and prone to unseasonal snowfalls and late melting of winter ice. Ice walls can reduce the road to a single lane, or block it altogether. Provision for delays here – but stop for pictures too.
* Baralach La – Blue Poppy Camp near Sarchu: 19 kms / 0:50 hrs
Should you be spending the night at Sarchu?
The Blue Poppy Camp is one of the many that come up around during summers for travelers to stay. Many travel service providers recommend a night halt here to acclimatize to the higher altitudes of Ladakh. At about 14,200 feet altitude, Sarchu is more acclimatization than you may need. It is very cold here, with strong windy conditions giving even camp managers who reside there constant headaches. Accommodation is all tented, and toilets are not attached, and it is not a cheerful thought walking out in the middle of the night with howling winds around. But Sarchu is also the only place between Jispa and Leh where you can organized accommodation; your only other option is to pitch tent on the way or crash at any of the shacks on the way who provide a bed for Rs. 50-100.
You can make a run for Leh from Jispa. It should take you about 11 hours but here is a warning: You may not want to be driving in the dark should you get delayed due to traffic snarls, road blocks, breakdowns or any other reason. And the drive from Jispa to Leh is worth stopping many times over to admire the natural features as well as to take pictures. Why would you want to keep moving when the whole idea of a road trip to Leh was to enjoy the drive?
Stay at Jispa, and make a very early start (say at 5:00 – 6:00 am) and make a run for Leh. Make sure you get a full night’s sleep to be well rested for the long drive ahead. It may be safe to assume that the chances of falling ill, even when going through high altitude areas, are low as long as you keep moving. Starting early will give you a cushion for delays and you can still make it to Leh while there is daylight. Even if night falls, but if you are within 60-70 km of Leh, it is all right as the terrain is mostly flat and more densely populated (in case you need assistance).
* Blue Poppy Camp – Sarchu: 15 kms / 0:25 hrs
This is the point where the state of Himachal Pradesh ends and you enter Ladakh, a part of the state of Jammu and Kashmir. You need to enter your personal particulars at a check post here, and non-Indians may be required to show their passports and other travel permits.
* Sarchu – Gata Loops Start: 26 kms / 0:40 hrs
The road literally loops up here for about 10 kms, hence the name. They make for great pictures with the right equipment when you look down at these from the top.
* Gata Loops Start – End: 10 kms / 0:20 hrs
* Gata Loops End – NakeeLa (Pass): 11 kms / 0:25 hrs
* NakeeLa – Lachung La (Pass): 12 kms / 0:30 hrs
* Lachung La – Pang: 23 kms / 1:05 hrs
This is where you may want a meal break, with a wide choice of dhabas (roadside shacks) to choose from. You will not get anything till you are close to Leh after this. And if you are short of breath or are developing symptoms of altitude sickness, the Army base here offers medical care to travelers.
* Pang – More Plains (These start at approximately this point and stretch for about 45 kms): 7 kms / 0:20 hrs
This is a high altitude plateau where you drive on a flat road for about 50 kms. You can expect to see the nomadic Changpas and their herds of livestock in this region.
* More Plains Start – Taglang La (Pass): 70 kms / 1:55 hrs
This is the highest point on the road to Leh. Enjoy the views but don’t hang around too long lest the high altitude and cold winds affect you. A few miles from Taglangla, and you will hit the best road since you left Manali. Get ready to step on the accelerator – but don’t throw caution to the winds.
* Taglang La – Gya: 37 kms / 1:15 hrs
You will finally hit civilization – and start greenery along the Indus river and its tributaies. Leh is within striking distance from here.
* Gya – Upshi: 27 kms / 0:35 hrs
* Upshi – Karu: 15 kms / 0:15 hrs
* Karu – Shey: 23 kms / 0:25 hrs
* Shey – Leh: 15 kms / 0:20 hrs
Total Distance / Time: 366 kms / 11:15 hrs
* Delhi (Rajghat) – Delhi / Haryana Border: 33 kms / 0:26 hrs
Distance marked from here in kms: Ambala 170, Karnal 92
* Delhi / Haryana Border – Barista Coffee (located on left side of highway itself): 23 kms / 0:17 hrs
If you prefer, there is a Café Coffee Day just 2 kms down and a very nice multi cuisine restaurant Haveli soon after; I think the latter is open 24 hours.
* Barista Coffee – Samalkha: 23 kms / 0:12 hrs
* Samalkha – Panipat: 17 kms / 0:10 hrs
Stick to the central lanes as you approach Panipat so you can take the flyover over the city – if you go through the city below the flyover, it could take you 30 minutes or longer.
* Panipat – Barista Coffee (located on opposite side of highway): 31 kms / 0:26 hrs
Barista is open 24 hrs here.
* Barista Coffee – Savoy Greens Food Court (next to Karni Lake in Karnal, on the opposite side of the highway): 13 kms / 0:13 hrs
The Savoy Greens is one of the better places to eat on the highway. The food court offers a selection of McDonalds, Costa Coffee, Subway, Domino’s Pizza, Kwality (North Indian dishes), a South Indian counter besides others.
* Savoy Greens – Karnal Toll Plaza (Rs. 81 for cars in 2010): 16 kms / 0:14 hrs
* Karnal Toll Plaza – Kurukshetra / Pipli: 13 kms / 0:11 hrs
Pipli is on the highway itself while Kurukshetra is a little inside from the highway.
* Kurukshetra – Ambala: 43 kms / 0:36 hrs
Just after the town there is a Saagar Ratna restaurant (serving south and north Indian cuisines, and usually do a good job – except the last time I was there) – a good option for a meal. It is located on the opposite side of the highway.
It is also a good idea to tank up at or before Ambala. Fuel is much more expensive in Punjab and Himachal Pradesh.
* Ambala – Right Turn for Kharar / Roopnagar just before Toll Plaza: 14 kms / 0:15 hrs
When you exit Ambala, don’t take the road to Chandigarh but the one to Jalandhar along NH1. Shortly after you will come to a toll plaza – don’t cross it. There is a right turn just before that, take that.
* Turn for Kharar – Kharar: 42 kms / 0:41 hrs
You hit NH21 after this that goes all the way to Manali
* Kharar – Kurali Toll Plaza (Rs. 11 for car in 2010): 13 kms / 0:17 hrs
* Kurali Toll Plaza – Roopnagar (formerly Ropar): 16 kms / 0:18 hrs
* Roopnagar – Right Turn for Manali: 31 kms / 0:42 hrs
Be careful here – it is easy to miss this turn. There is a flyover under construction next to a railway crossing and a fuel station. You have to turn right here over the tracks. Traffic sometimes tends to get jammed here. Of course, in due course of time, this flyover will be complete – but no one knows when. It has been work in progress for years.
* Right Turn for Manali – Swarghat: 22 kms / 0:35 hrs
* Swarghat – Bilaspur: 42 kms / 1:25 hrs
The road become mountainous from here. It was generally a good road but has deteriorated lately especially after the unexceptionally heavy rains of 2010.
* Bilaspur – Sundernagar: 44 kms / 1:09 hrs
* Sundernagar – Mandi: 24 kms / 0:29 hrs
* Mandi – Aut Tunnel (2809 m long): 39 kms / 0:51 hrs
* Aut Tunnel – Kullu: 31 kms / 0:39 hrs
* Kullu – Naggar: 26 kms / 0:55 hrs
After you cross Kullu town, you will see a bridge going across the river. Slow down, take a U-turn to the left and go onto the bridge to cross over. This will take you on the right bank – The drive is along a narrower road that takes you through villages and Naggar – all along, you will see fruit orchards, a delightful sight at all time especially when they bear fruits or flowers. You may choose not to cross the river and continue straight – that gets you to the centre of Manali town quicker.
A good idea to tank up in Kullu or Manali – the next fuel station will be in Tandi. And supplies there can be erratic – and you will have to wait to get to Leh to find the next station.
* Naggar – Manali: 22 kms / 0:37 hrs
Total Distance / Time: 578 kms / 11:38 hours
General Notes for the Delhi – Manali Drive:
* There is no dearth of fuel stations and places to eat along the way.
* It is always advisable to leave early from Delhi, preferably by 6 a.m. since it is a long journey and it is not advisable to drive in the dark on highways.
Leg 2: Manali – Jispa
This marks the beginning of one of the most beautiful drives you will ever undertake – and also one of the most challenging. There is virtually no road over long stretches and weather conditions can change fast – many groups were stuck for days when heavy unseasonal rains and flash floods occurred in the summer of 2010. But worry not – be careful and no one gets hurt.
* Manali – Marhi: 36 kms / 1:30 hrs
This is the better part of the road – and you will generally have a smooth run. Of course, there will be rough patches – and all it takes is one stuck vehicle to throw all traffic out of gear. At Marhi, you can take a break for tea / snacks / meal at one of the many roadside Dhabas (restaurants). Most restrooms belong to the Dhabas and they only allow paying customers to use it. Buy a tea or cola if need be to use it – there are not too many opportunities to go behind rocks for a long time after this.
* Marhi – Rohtang Pass: 16 kms / 1:30 hrs
This is a bad stretch, getting worse with every monsoon rains and winter snow. You will make only slow progress when you go off season with limited traffic, and it will be a snarl during holiday season. Marked Altitide for Rohtang Pass: 3,980 m (13,057 ft)
* Rohtang Pass – Gramphoo (Turn Right for Kaza /Spiti, and straight for Ladakh): 16 kms / 1:19 hrs
Distance marked from here in kms: Kaza 137, Tabo 177, Keylong 51
* Gramphoo – Koksar: 6 kms / 0:10 hrs
You need to enter your personal information at the Police Post here. Non-Indians may need to show passports / travel permits if required.
* Koksar – Sissu: 14 kms / 0:15 hrs
* Sissu – Tandi (Last fuel station here till Leh): 24 kms / 0:50 hrs
A good idea to tank up here even if you think you have enough fuel. You never know when you may have to take unplanned diversions. But don’t depend on this place to get fuel – it may be closed or out of stock sometimes. Best to be sure you have enough from Manali onwards.
* Tandi – Keylong: 9 kms / 0:20 hrs
You can enter the town here to grab a bite – but it will be basic at best. Keylong is also known for some monasteries and other religious establishments should you be interested.
* Keylong – Jispa: 23 kms / 0:50 hrs
Stop here for a night halt. If you have made good progress, you can continue to Sarchu – not recommended as you like to go slow and steady after Jispa to admire the many attractions on the way.
Total Distance / Time: 144 kms / 6:45 hrs
Leg 3: Jispa – Leh
Be prepared for a rough ride from here. The quality of roads (where they exist) changes every year depending on damaging the winters were and the extent of repairs that follow. You will get long stretches of broken roads, or just dust tracks.
* Jispa – Deepak Tal (Lake): 23 kms / 0:50 hrs
This is a small but beautiful lake. Have a snack, meal or tea at Hozer’s shack if you like.
* Deepak Tal – Suraj Tal: 30 kms / 1:00 hrs
A bigger lake, makes for great pictures if it is partially or fully frozen. This is usually so during early summers when snow has not fully melted.
* Suraj Tal – Baralach La (Pass): 3 kms / 0:05 hrs
This is one of the higher passes in Ladakh, and prone to unseasonal snowfalls and late melting of winter ice. Ice walls can reduce the road to a single lane, or block it altogether. Provision for delays here – but stop for pictures too.
* Baralach La – Blue Poppy Camp near Sarchu: 19 kms / 0:50 hrs
Should you be spending the night at Sarchu?
The Blue Poppy Camp is one of the many that come up around during summers for travelers to stay. Many travel service providers recommend a night halt here to acclimatize to the higher altitudes of Ladakh. At about 14,200 feet altitude, Sarchu is more acclimatization than you may need. It is very cold here, with strong windy conditions giving even camp managers who reside there constant headaches. Accommodation is all tented, and toilets are not attached, and it is not a cheerful thought walking out in the middle of the night with howling winds around. But Sarchu is also the only place between Jispa and Leh where you can organized accommodation; your only other option is to pitch tent on the way or crash at any of the shacks on the way who provide a bed for Rs. 50-100.
You can make a run for Leh from Jispa. It should take you about 11 hours but here is a warning: You may not want to be driving in the dark should you get delayed due to traffic snarls, road blocks, breakdowns or any other reason. And the drive from Jispa to Leh is worth stopping many times over to admire the natural features as well as to take pictures. Why would you want to keep moving when the whole idea of a road trip to Leh was to enjoy the drive?
Stay at Jispa, and make a very early start (say at 5:00 – 6:00 am) and make a run for Leh. Make sure you get a full night’s sleep to be well rested for the long drive ahead. It may be safe to assume that the chances of falling ill, even when going through high altitude areas, are low as long as you keep moving. Starting early will give you a cushion for delays and you can still make it to Leh while there is daylight. Even if night falls, but if you are within 60-70 km of Leh, it is all right as the terrain is mostly flat and more densely populated (in case you need assistance).
* Blue Poppy Camp – Sarchu: 15 kms / 0:25 hrs
This is the point where the state of Himachal Pradesh ends and you enter Ladakh, a part of the state of Jammu and Kashmir. You need to enter your personal particulars at a check post here, and non-Indians may be required to show their passports and other travel permits.
* Sarchu – Gata Loops Start: 26 kms / 0:40 hrs
The road literally loops up here for about 10 kms, hence the name. They make for great pictures with the right equipment when you look down at these from the top.
* Gata Loops Start – End: 10 kms / 0:20 hrs
* Gata Loops End – NakeeLa (Pass): 11 kms / 0:25 hrs
* NakeeLa – Lachung La (Pass): 12 kms / 0:30 hrs
* Lachung La – Pang: 23 kms / 1:05 hrs
This is where you may want a meal break, with a wide choice of dhabas (roadside shacks) to choose from. You will not get anything till you are close to Leh after this. And if you are short of breath or are developing symptoms of altitude sickness, the Army base here offers medical care to travelers.
* Pang – More Plains (These start at approximately this point and stretch for about 45 kms): 7 kms / 0:20 hrs
This is a high altitude plateau where you drive on a flat road for about 50 kms. You can expect to see the nomadic Changpas and their herds of livestock in this region.
* More Plains Start – Taglang La (Pass): 70 kms / 1:55 hrs
This is the highest point on the road to Leh. Enjoy the views but don’t hang around too long lest the high altitude and cold winds affect you. A few miles from Taglangla, and you will hit the best road since you left Manali. Get ready to step on the accelerator – but don’t throw caution to the winds.
* Taglang La – Gya: 37 kms / 1:15 hrs
You will finally hit civilization – and start greenery along the Indus river and its tributaies. Leh is within striking distance from here.
* Gya – Upshi: 27 kms / 0:35 hrs
* Upshi – Karu: 15 kms / 0:15 hrs
* Karu – Shey: 23 kms / 0:25 hrs
* Shey – Leh: 15 kms / 0:20 hrs
Total Distance / Time: 366 kms / 11:15 hrs
